Jun 28 , 2021

Magda Gouzd

PROFHILO - promoting and stimulating collagen and elastin.

We are living in a society and culture where improving our appearance and seeking to slow down the ageing process is being adopted across all age ranges.  Younger people (in their 20’s) are now actively seeking treatments that will slow down this process and extend their youthful appearance, this of course has to be balanced with a good skin care regime, particularly in relation to protecting against sun damage. Unfortunately, this is not always taken as seriously as it should as another trend have always been seen as a positive the “suntan” so may people old, young and all genders seek to have the evidence that they have been enjoying long period in the sun and have gained that “healthy looking tan”.

Along with factors the skin starts to lose its tightness and laxity so over time we see the development of fine lines and wrinkles, also the smile lines.  Dermal fillers, and Botox, are options but one of the more recent injectable treatment products is Profhilo. 

This product acts in a different way to that of traditional fillers in that it treats beneath the skin. It is a moisturiser, a hyaluronic acid gel which is injected directly to the treatment area, it has a longer period of activity (lasts longer) on the dermal cells.  It acts on the skin cell receptors stimulating them and restores the laxity of the skin and firms it thus restoring a more contoured and younger look.  As the product starts to work it promotes and stimulates collagen and elastin, both products naturally produced in the skin, it has the necessary properties, with the slow release of the hyaluronic acid, to act as a remodelling agent for anti-ageing and prevents sagging of the skin.

The treatment is suitable for the face, neck, hands, decolletage, arms, knees, and the abdomen. It is suitable for both men and women.

The treatment results after one procedure the client will notice an improved firmness of the skin and elasticity which may last up to six months, but generally the results when there are two treatments, usually four weeks apart.  A further follow up treatment 2 months later and with further treatments twice a year – this will allow for optimum results.

This is of course OK if you are fine with needles and injectable treatments but what about other options that do not involve injections or Microneedling techniques?   According to the available market there are many options available that contain the same substance, Hyaluronic acid that moisturises and plumps up the skin providing the same results reducing fine lines and wrinkles. The question is do they work and is it possible to see a visible difference?  There are many fans of these products and state that they do notice a visible difference to their appearance, and it does improve.

There is a difference however in that with injectable techniques the Hyaluronic Acid penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin “trapping” moisture and maintaining hydration for longer.  With a cream however this is only penetrating the epidermis (upper layer) not the dermis (second layer of skin).  This will of course have some effect but with a cream this will be washed away on a daily basis and of course have to be re-applied.  With injectable treatments the Hyaluronic Acid is locked in thus prolonging the effects.

It is worth noting of course that in some, rare, cases individuals may have a reaction to an injection of hyaluronic acid, but this can be treated by the practitioner immediately using hyaluronidase which effectively dissolves any excess hyaluronic acid.  The client may also ignore their after-care instructions and massage the treated area moving the injected hyaluronic acid causing an unbalanced look or appearance, again the practitioner can treat this using the same technique.  Using a skin care product such as a cream or lotion is unlikely to have this effect as only the surface of the skin is being touched.

According to dermatologists (USA) there are products available that contain ingredients that are genuine in that they are preventative in terms of signs of ageing – these are Retinols, whereas other products will only limit or reduce the signs of ageing.  These are the products that contain Hyaluronic Acid.  They also suggest that if you have a skin care regime that you “layer” correctly as they are often applied in the wrong sequence which makes them ineffective.  Ani-ageing creams should be applied after you have applied all the other products of a skin care regime, with the exception of sunscreen.  If applied incorrectly (cream before serum / gel) this may prevent the latter from penetrating the skin.

What should you look for in anti-ageing creams?  Dermatologists also suggest that you do not have to select the most expensive products to achieve the best results, they suggest look at the packaging and of course reliable (well known brands) but always check the label for ingredients. 

The ingredients that you should look for are, Vitamin A derivatives – Retinoids.  These promote collagen production and encourage cell turnover, they will also even out your skin tone.  If you are seeking to repair skin damage, then look for products containing Peptides.   Vitamins C & E which are antioxidants can also be found in some skin care products, these will counter free radicals which cause damage to cells. Lastly, we come back to the products containing Hyaluronic Acids (also ceramides) these are the products that lock-in moisture and reduce the appearance of the signs of ageing. 

Dermatologists also suggest that you should know your skin type.  If you have never had to consult a dermatologist or skin specialist or even had an Aesthetic Beauty treatment, then although you may have some indication and knowledge of your skin type you may not all the information available. Those involved in the medical field and the beauty industry use the Fitzpatrick Scale to determine skin types and tones. Below are the skin types defined in the scale (source Wikipedia)

  • Type I (scores 0–6) always burns, never tans (palest; freckles)
  • Type II (scores 7–13) usually burns, tans minimally (light coloured but darker than fair)
  • Type III (scores 14–20) sometimes mild burn, tans uniformly (golden honey or olive)
  • Type IV (scores 21–27) burns minimally, always tans well (moderate brown)
  • Type V (scores 28–34) very rarely burns, tans very easily (dark brown)
  • Type VI (scores 35–36) never burns (deeply pigmented dark brown to darkest brown)

This may vary for some individuals, but it is only a general guide. Remember also that you should check for any ingredients that you may have an allergy too as this may cause you unnecessary discomfort or damage to your skin, if you do encounter any reaction to a product, you should stop using it and possibly contact your doctor if the symptoms persist or check with your pharmacist for a possible remedy!

There are some other factors in relation to creams or gels you buy over the counter.  The better products will be packaged in darker containers as light can affect them if overexposed.  In the same manner you should ensure that they are stored correctly.

Whatever treatment or cream you choose I hope that you find the most suitable and that you will be satisfied with the results, and you will achieve that younger looking appearance.